EZGO Golf Cart Maintenance These maintenance techniques are designed for 1996-2003 (early) E-Z-GOs. Most of what is mentioned applies to 91-present 4 cycle engines. After reading, you will be able to determine the difference based on the description. If you have any questions, or need clarification please don't hesitate to ask any of the Forum Members. Throttle Cable: does your car seem a bit slower than normal? Your accelerator cable could have stretched causing a speed loss. Adjustment: To adjust the throttle cable, check to ensure the throttle plate is fully closed and governor arm is rotated fully counter-clockwise. By the throttle cable bracket are two nuts (1/2 inch). Loosen the nut toward the rear of the car, and tighten the nut on the front of the bracket. Periodically check to ensure the throttle plate remains closed as you tighten. When I tighten these, I tighten them tight enough to open the throttle plate fully. As a final check, press the acc pedal and listen for the acc microswitch to click. The throttle plate should not move for a few more CMs after the switch clicks. Adjusting this won't pick up a lot of speed, however, it will open the throttle plate fully so as the reach the correct top speed. **For 2003-Present** Follow the same procedures as above, however, you may need to also adjust the rear cable. Begin by adjusting the forward cable. After Adjusting the front cable, use these as a guide for adjusting the rear cable: -Throttle Plate opens too quickly: Slightly loosen rear cable. - Throttle Plate will open at correct time, but not open all the way: Tighten Rear Cable. - Throttle Plate Opens too quickly, and will not open all the way: Slightly loosen front cable and tighten rear cable. Throttle Cable Adjustment 2003-Present: Governor Compression Spring Adjustment: For factory settings Note: Hold the accelerator cable when removing/adjusting the compression spring lock nut. Failure to hold cable will cause the accelerator cable to twist which may cause premature failure. Pre-adjust the governor compression spring by rotating the nut until a dimension of 2 1/2" is achieved between the back of the accelerator cable bushing and the outside of the cup washer. This dimension is a pre-adjustment and may be further adjusted after a road test. Starter/Generator Belt tension: New Belt: A.Tighten a NEW starter/generator belt to 90-110lbs. tension whan a gauge is applied half way between the two pulleys. B. Although not as accurate, a NEW belt may be depressed with a finger. A maximum deflection of 3/8" is acceptable Existing Belt: Re-tighten an existing belt to 75-80 pounds using the same technique as listed above in A. A maximum deflection of 1/2" is acceptable when depressed with a finger. Adjusting the Belt (See Picture Below): Located behind the belt, and attached to the starter/gen. is a tension arm. - While holding down the lower adjusting nut with a 9/16" wrench, loosen the upper jam nut with another 9/16" wrench. Move the lower nut up or down until proper belt tension is reached. Hold the lower nut in place and tighten the upper nut. Note: I have found that after adjusting some belts, the starter/gen pivot bolt can become slightly loose. Using a 3/4" socket and open end wrench, tighten the pivot bolt if needed. Spark Plugs: Using a 13/16" spark plug wrench, remove the spark plugs at 250-300 hours or annually and inspect. Replace the spark plugs with NGK brand BPR4ES, and gap to .028"-.030". Note: If a plug has been burned beyond .035" it should be replaced A trade off exists between the larger gap that provides a large flame vs. a smaller gap that provides a hotter flame. Use the setting that you find most effective for your car. --Fouled spark plugs are indicated by a wet, black appearance. This could be caused by a dirty air filter element or other restrictions in the air intake system. Incorrectly adjusted valves, spark plug wires which are in poor condition or poor quality fuel could also contribute tot he problem. Use NGK BPR4ES (resistor plugs) for replacement. Tighten spark plugs to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) torque. Changing the oil: First, remove and clean the oil dipstick from the engine. Next, remove the oil fill cap, located on top of the valve cover. Then change the oil by draining the fluids through the oil filter passage. The oil filter is located directly below the drive clutch, and is triangular in shape and brass colored (SEE PICTURE BELOW). Remove the three 10mm bolts from each corner to remove the filter. For each oil change, clean the filter off with a shop rag. Clean the sealing surface and rubber 'O' ring off before reinstalling the filter. Use 1.5 qts of 10W-30 oil. You can use synthetic or regular, and the brand is your choice. If the golf car is lifted, it is imperative that you fill it with 1.5 qts, and not to the full mark on the dip stick. It is recommend that you make a notch on the dipstick to indicate the new FULL line. The oil filter requires replacement every 10 years. NOTE: Do not use any solvents, fuel, or other chemical cleaners to clean the filter with. They can cause the rubber seal on the filter to become brittle and/or cause the filter to become brittle and break. Oil Filter For 2004- Present Cars (With Carb Recall Kit for MCI Engine): Use NGK Brand FR2A Spark Plugs. Gap them at .035". Use Air Cleaner Element #28463-G01 (Round Air Canister). **MCI ENGINE Identification ** You will know if yours is an MCI Engine by the round air filter. If the kit has not been installed, one will need to be installed as soon as possible. Contact your local E-Z-GO dealer to have the Recall Kit installed at no charge. You can also tell if you have a MCI Engine by the exhaust manifold. The MCI engine's exhaust manifold is built onto the engine. You will have a single exhaust pipe joining with the Muffler. Shift Cable Adjustment: On each shift cable on the rear end, you will see that it goes through a cam (the lever that moves side to side). On that is a neutral lock out, to put the car in neutral lock out put the FnR handle in neutral and turn the key off. Reach on the cam and you will find a flat pin located on the driver's side of the rear. Pull that out and rotate clockwise 180 degrees. The pin will snap into a cavity in the differential case. Now what makes the cam shift is the amount of compression of the two springs. What you want to do is tighten the 10mm nut on top of each one. When you adj it you should measure the length from the top of the upper cup washer to the bottom of the lower cup washer. You should compress the spring so that the length of each spring (as measure like above) is, 1 3/8". After you adj each one to that length, reset the neutral lock out by rotating it again 180deg clockwise. Try shifting the car in each direction, and push is fwd/rev slightly and see if it pops into gear easier. If not just repeat the above and tighten each one equally down by 1/8" at a time, checking for quickness of shifting after each adjustment.