Harley Davidson Golf Cart Still Won't Start Up

[Tumminelli]

Hi. Still trying to get my basket case 66 Harley Davidson golf cart to start.

I have spark and fuel but I think my compression is low. It is about 65 lbs. I know that is low but I thought it should still fire up and maybe just not run real strong with low compression. I think I read somewhere it should be about 100/120 area. Does that sound right?

My next question is I have a 66, the one with the drive shaft. Seems like all the available parts out there are for 67 and up. I bought a cheap carb online ( looks exactly like the original) said it was for 67 and up. I also see heads, piston and rings out there for 67 and up. If I need to replace mine is it ok to buy the 67 and up one. I know the plug will come out the top instead of the side, but I can work around that. Will they work??

Last question. I once had a honda 400 motorcycle. It was doing the same thing as this cart. It would crank, but never fire up. It also had spark and fuel. I took it to a shop and it turned out to be the stator. Does anyone know if I could be having the same issue here. Does the stator in these harley carts aid in the firing of the motor?? God forbid if it is bad, don't know where I would ever find another one.

Any thoughts welcome.
Thanks for listening, Paul

 

[Nubs]

Pistons/rings are the same from 63 to 95
EN11-100 - Piston Assembly, Three Rings (STD) - Vintage Golf Cart Parts Inc. (and over size)

The stator has no affect on the spark, the compression is low. I never had much luck with the cheap carbs
i would try to gravity feed it gas and see if it pops off, is the timing right?

 

[Tumminelli]

I did try pouring gas down the carb. No luck. The timing appears right. With the dot lined up to the short fin on the flywheel, when I turn it the points just start to open.

Do you think with the compression that low it would not start??

From what I can find it doesn't seem like anyone sells a top end kit for my motor. I guess I would have to have the bore machined and then buy the oversized piston and rings. Do you know what the compression should be??

 

[Nubs]

63 to 66 used a different cylinder so you would have to bore it, if your sure the timing is right and if it will not pop or run a bit when you squirt gas in the spark plug hole then i would say the compression is one problem.
I have one that still runs at 75 lbs but its cold blooded, 100 to 125 lbs is where it should be, have the machine shop tell you what size piston you will need to buy

 

[Tumminelli]

Thanks nub. Looked like I’m going to take it out and apart. Don’t know what I’ll find. Keep you posted. Paul

 

[Nubs]

I would also replace the crankshaft seals since your going to have it on the bench, 99% chance there bad. Very common problem, with bad seals it still will not run and you will be taking it apart again

 

[Tumminelli]

Thanks for the advice. I’ll do the seals too.

 

[Tumminelli]

Hi nubs. Got piston out. I took photos. Walls look pretty good to me. ( I’m no expert). There is no ridge on the top, some minor scratches on the walls. Do you think it needs to be bored or just honed? Not sure what the rings should look like but they do have a bit of a sharp edge on the edges.

Any ideas on how to pull the rest on the clutch off without bending it?? My puller wants to bend it. I tried sliding a piece of metal under the jaws of the puller but it still wanted to bend.

Do you know how far I have to go to replace the seals on the crankshaft? Do I have to take the whole engine apart? Are the seals the same on both sides??

Thanks again for your help, Paul

 

[Nubs]

A inside mic is the only way to know the wear, it looks like there is wear from the intake/exhaust ports and lower. i can see where the ring marks are at the bottom of there stroke, many guys just hone them and install a new piston & rings. depends somewhat on how much you plan on running it, sometimes you can slide some flat stock under the clutch and support them on blocks so the engine hangs underneath. some heat on the hub and tap/hit the end of the crank with a lead hammer or block. yes you need to split the case to replace seals and they not the same.

 

[Tumminelli]

Thanks nubs. Looks like I got my work cut out for me. Paul

 

[Tumminelli]

Just an up date.

 

[Tumminelli]

Just an update. The cyclinder is off to the machine shop. He will let me know what piston I should buy after he mills it.
Got the clutch half off finally. Hat to use my big tour here. It took a lot of heat concentrated on the inside between the case and the clutch.
Now for the bad news. In order to change the crank seal on the stater side I have to remove the stator, right? Well it ain’t movin. I took the three screws off and tried to pry it off with 2 screw drivers. That’s what it said to do in the book. I even tried 2 crow bars, nothing. Any ideas??

 

[Nubs]

It looks like that engine may be a 63/64, i think those were the only yrs that used double needle bearing for the wrist pin. if i remember right the seal on that side may come out from the outside, look close and see. i would do my best to leave the stator alone, if you nick the winding its nothin' but bad news.

 

[Tumminelli]

I think you are right. It’s a little hard to tell unless I poke and pry at it, but it could be a seal. When I order the other parts I’ll order the seals too. If that is the seal it is defiantly smaller than the other side. Does that sound right?
I hope I did not damage the windings. I tried to pry on the metal bars I could barely see and they did bend a little.

 

[Nubs]

 

[Tumminelli]

Hi nubs.

Just an update on my project. Finished with the head work, new piston bored 30 over, got it all back together and couldn't get it started. Finally did. Turned out I had the linkage backwards on the carb. In my old mind when the spring on the carb pulls the butterfly in a certain direction I assumed that was closed. Well I guess on these carts the sprinted direction is actually opened all the way. Cost me $50 and a trip to my local motorcycle shop to find that out.

Now that I got it running, it fires right up but does smoke a little more than I think it should. Hoping it is just because it need to be broken in and all the peerages burning off. It also backfires every 10/15 seconds. Someone told me it could be the muffler. They said on these 2 stroke engines the muffler is very important on how they run. I did notice a rattling noise when I shook it but couldn't get whatever was in it out. So yesterday I did surgery on it. Turns out both baffles were laying in the bottom along with a small tube. I welded it all back together but have not tried to see if that fixed the problem yet. Hope it did. I'll let you know.

Thanks again for your help and listening. Paul

 

[Nubs]

Yep, spring loaded open throttle is crazy to think. I mix 40:1 after break in, No ethanol added fuel... They will not run right even with fresh fuel, i have even seen the oil separate from the ethanol after a few weeks
Thanks for the update

 

[Tumminelli]

Hi nubs. Repairing the muffler was necessary but did not cure the backfiring issue. I think I narrowed it down to the relation between the micro switch and the throttle opening in tandem. The adjustments I made allowed the switch stay on longer through the throttle travel. I also set the timing with a timing light and it was a little off. Wasn't able to test it out yet got to late. I'll check it out tomorrow.

Do you know if there is anyone who would have an engine cover for sale for 63 to 66. Seems like it is one of the only parts I'm missing. I could try and make one but I rather have an original.

Thanks Paul

 

[Tumminelli]

Nubs. That did the trick. No more backfiring and seems to accelerate well. Not able to drive it yet but I'm pretty confident it will pull ok.

Still looking for an engine cover.

Thank again for all of your help, Paul

 

[Nubs]

The cover that goes around the cylinder? picture please