2014 DIESEL Club Car XRT Gear Oil

[MisterChris]

Greetings one & all.
I am a new owner of an old 2014 Club Car Diesel XRT (RY1459-xxx) ex-rental fleet machine.
I recognized it was a bit of a rag when I bought it, (the previous owner was not a mechanic) but ....
While catching up on periodic maintenance, I notice that while the gear cavities appear wet with oil, they are not at the service manual recommended level. ( I have a 2013 service manual & a 2015 service manual)

manual specs-Mobil 424, Exxon Hydraul 560, or Esso Hydraul 56 lubricant
(CC P/N 20 oz. (600 mL) AM1245401)

Mobil 424 is basically, tractor transmission & hydraulic fluid. I can get this stuff in 5 gallon bucket, or 2 & 1/2 gallon jug, but I only need 46 oz or so, less than 2 qt.
I have some Kubota UDT in hand. The UDT is pretty pricy stuff, should be great oil, but....
The club car manual says it has a Constantly Variable Transmission (CVT). I had a terrible experience with the CVT in a sub compact car, & so I am unsure about putting the "wrong oil" in it.
I do see "CVT oil" by the quart at walmart, but these part numbers are not listed as alternatives.
So, does any one know for sure about this?

Thanks in advance, CE

 

[ParBruce]

I too recently purchased a used Club Car Carryall 1700 D, a rental return unit. It is a 2019 year and I could not find any info on line such as a repair or service manual for such a "new" unit. I contacted the local Club Car dealer and for $25 they mailed me one of the best usb repair, parts, service and owners manuals I have ever seen.

I removed the "sealed" cover off the transmission/engine. The drive belt looked like any other golf cart belt and the whole thing, visually, was not that much different from my 1985 Harley (Columbia) ParCar golf cart. So yes, it can be considered a CVT transmission, in part, but nowhere near the technical complexity of modern CVT's in automobiles, IMO.

You will also find a service bulletin (letter?) advising Club Car owners to double the amount of fluid in the rear end to 40 fl oz due to a reportedly high failure rate of the rear ends. One of the first things I did was to replace the diff(s) and trans oil. I used Super Tech Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission Fluid

Have fun learning, they are pretty well built. The wiring harness and hose routings are not as well run, IMO, and there are items rubbing against each other or against the frame or brackets. Plan on laying under it and absorb the "view" then see what hose or wiring loom is being sawed in half!

Good luck!

 

[MisterChris]

Thanks for the response, ParBruce.
My golf cart experience is pretty minimal, so I tend to be cautious about some stuff.
( I am including a bunch of stuff, not to abuse you, but to share with others looking for information.)
I tried looking at the parts diagrams, and reading the service manual rather than just skimming, I was referred to an "(engine drivetrain component repair & rebuild manual)"
I down loaded this from

Club car engine component - Free Pdf Manuals Download | ManualsLib

www.manualslib.com

I did not see spider-diferential gears in the front or rear bevel (differential) gear assemblies.

for the front, the repair manual is very specific, quoting ....
--------------------------------
17. Remove the oil fill plug and add 5 ounces (150 ml) of Mobil 424, Exxon Hydraul 560, or Esso Hydraul 56
lubricant.
CAUTION
• Do not use any other brand or type of oil.
------------------------------------------------

Looking in the "transmission" gear case, I do not see any friction materials.
I also do not see the caution mentioned above

In the rear axle, I again do not see "differential gears, but I see a "clutch carrier".
The rebuild manual says ....
---------------------------
The 420366 and 420851 rear differential models are heavy-duty, fully-synchronized gear-driven differentials.
They are self-contained and requires a mixture of 80-90W gear lubricant and TracTech friction modifier
lubrication oil to operate properly. The proper mixture of lubrication compounds is 17.8 oz (525 mL) gear lubricant
to 2.5 oz. (75 mL) TracTech friction modifier.
-----------------------------------

(apparently one part number is for gasoline all wheel drive carts, the other is for Diesel all wheel drive carts, but I am not seeing which is which now. Of course, the bar code sticker is obliterated on mine.)
Since the service manual and the rebuild manual do not agree, I called the local dealer.
Parts guy asked the service tech to verify, they said any equivalent oil was ok, and the component repair manual should be followed.
So, I guess I will be using the brand specified in the front, and generic 80-90wt , with friction modifier in the rear.
Please let us know how the supertech oil works out.

 

[MisterChris]

Well, I am back. I located the mobile 424 oil at tractor supply, $44 plus tax for 2 & 1/2 gallons. But, if I damage the unit by running the "wrong" oil, It will probably cost me more than $50 to repair it, so I guess I will go buy it.
Specs on the oil state that it is GL-4 oil. the difference between GL-4 & GL-5 is that some additives in the GL-5 formula, while great lubricants, they also are corrosive to brass.
I purchased some "K&D" friction modifier for the rear axle, but reading the label, I see that it is "GL-5".
Looking at the photos in the component repair manual, I don't see anything that looks like brass. Has any one who has already "been here & done this" any knowledge or experience specific to this situation? Thanks, CE