Need to replace the engine cradle snubber on a 1996 Club Car DS - it looks simple enough, just slide the old one off and slide the new one on. However, if my visual calculations are correct, I believe the width of the new snubber is too wide just to make this repair that simple. Any advice appreciated.
Club Car Engine Cradle Snubber Replacement
- Thread starter Shootrig
- Start date
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
This is from the 1996 Club Car Service Manual on replacing the engine cradle snubber.
REMOVING THE SNUBBER:
1. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position a jackstand under each vehicle frame member, near the end just beneath the rear bumper, one on each side of the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to let the jackstands support the vehicle.
2. Place the jack under the front of the inner-frame (5) and raise it until the snubber (21) is centered between the snubber brackets on the frame
3. Remove the front mounting bolts and nuts (13 and 2) on both leaf springs (Figure 18-1, Page 18-2). 4. Push the inner-frame to the rear enough to allow removal of the snubber.
INSTALLING THE SNUBBER:
1. Position new snubber on inner-frame mounting tab, and then reverse the removal procedure to complete the installation.
2. Tighten the leaf spring front mounting bolts to 20-25 ft.lbs.
I've changed them before without taking the front spring bolts out by placing a jack under the engine and taking the weight off. I would try that first before trying to take the bolts out on the front of the springs. They can be a pain in the ass to get out.
Also check to see if the bracket that holds the snubber is bolted on. If it is you can take the bracket off and change the snubber. Some years had the bracket bolted on vs welded on to the cradle. Maybe someone else will jump in with some tips on changing the snubber.
REMOVING THE SNUBBER:
1. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position a jackstand under each vehicle frame member, near the end just beneath the rear bumper, one on each side of the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to let the jackstands support the vehicle.
2. Place the jack under the front of the inner-frame (5) and raise it until the snubber (21) is centered between the snubber brackets on the frame
3. Remove the front mounting bolts and nuts (13 and 2) on both leaf springs (Figure 18-1, Page 18-2). 4. Push the inner-frame to the rear enough to allow removal of the snubber.
INSTALLING THE SNUBBER:
1. Position new snubber on inner-frame mounting tab, and then reverse the removal procedure to complete the installation.
2. Tighten the leaf spring front mounting bolts to 20-25 ft.lbs.
I've changed them before without taking the front spring bolts out by placing a jack under the engine and taking the weight off. I would try that first before trying to take the bolts out on the front of the springs. They can be a pain in the ass to get out.
Also check to see if the bracket that holds the snubber is bolted on. If it is you can take the bracket off and change the snubber. Some years had the bracket bolted on vs welded on to the cradle. Maybe someone else will jump in with some tips on changing the snubber.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
If you take the front spring bolts out you can push the rear end back a little, it will pivot on the spring hangers. Loosening the u-bolts may work also.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Yes, I should have worded that a little better. 
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Believe me I know I can confuse people the way I explain some things. 
How do I get the spring tension off the leaf spring bolt? The nut come lose but there is so much spring tension (at least that is all I can figure) that I can hardly rotate the bolt. And I don't want it flinging apart on me and i need to be able to put it back together.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Put a jack under the spring to take some weight off. The front bolts on a Club Car rear spring can be a PITA to get out. You might want to spray some penetrating oil on them and let is sit for a hour or so. There's a good chance the spring bushings are going to be in bad shape once you get the bolts out. I clean the rust off of the bolts or use new bolts and put anti-seize on the shoulder of the bolt before I put them back in. If the bushings are bad I'd replace them while you have it apart.
I came up with a better plan. Once I get the new body on I am going to put a lift kit on it, I suspect I will be dropping the rear leafs then anyway, I will just replace the snubber then. If I do it now, I will need to put it on hold and order new leaf-spring bushings anyway.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
If you're planning on putting a lift kit on then I would wait like you said and do it all at once. I would still spray those bolts with penetrating oil a few times in the mean time. 
........ I would still spray those bolts with penetrating oil a few times in the mean time.
Good idea. I am hoping my aluminum welding guru can get his deer and fit me in this week.
Wow, I don't have a manual so appreciated this thread. I've done everything here except remove the front leaf spring bolt and no go. I will do that tomorrow. I was shocked at how much trouble caused in servicing this part vs the way it used to be. Several hours today and still not done. Previously, a jack under the engine mount, lift it slightly, remove to bolts, remove and install the new snubber, bolt back in place, remove jack. Clearly service was not considered when making the "weld on" cost save. I'm even thinking about making mine a "bolt on" if I can devise a way to hold it in the welded-on position by cutting off the current one, making a small part, bending it to align and then bolting it on. Thanks