EZGO Workhorse 350 Drive Clutch Possible Issue
- Thread starter Icarus831
- Start date
Tomd
Cartaholic
Well, that part seems to be eliminated. Have you tried it without the air filter to see if helps any? Its strange that one minute its running good and now this issue. I have seen a driven clutch cause this but you said you took care of that. Cartmaster will be along in a while. Maybe he has a suggestion. Right now I got to think.
cartmaster
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Ok. So far everything seems to check out. I am now wondering if your initial problem was actually a dirty carb and you have since replaced it with a non OEM one, which from experience and feedback from this and other forums, I have to suspect your issue could well be fuel delivery. These replacement carbs from China etc, are renowned for being poor quality and your fouled plugs are telling me it may be causing the engine to run rich. If you can find new plugs it is worth installing them to see if they foul up and indicate a rich mixture. I am struggling now to think of what to check next apart from fuel.
Like Tom, I need to think further for a possible cause.
Like Tom, I need to think further for a possible cause.
cartmaster
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Yes Tom, it is definitely showing more thread as you say. Maybe worth a look, but my thinking at the moment is that it is still serviceable. I usually find wear in the inlet valves shows up slowly but the OP stated it suddenly lost power after some spirited driving and the compression figures were fair. Not wonderful but in my opinion good enough to run with some power. Yes, if time and replacement inlet vales plus gaskets are available it would be worth a top end rebuild. The sudden loss of power could easily be fueling though.
cartmaster
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
I have to admit, I have never come across a Cam belt that has slipped. I have seen them incorrectly fitted, broken or worn, but never actually slipped. Even if the tensioner bolt was loose, the engine never really lost power. Still worth checking though. Downside for checking is the drive clutch needs to come off. As is the case for checking inlet valves. I assume it has been off to check weights and rollers so maybe not stuck like some I have seen.
I literally just replaced the drive clutch on the car to test lol..... ill removed again. It was a pig but nothing some patience and knuckle skin couldn't fix. So yeah with instruction I could check the timing belt and condition.
What should compression be. I thought mine seemed pretty good when searching the net ?
As far as fuel goes. It was almost out of fuel while being fixed so I topped with E5 premium and ran. Should I try n drain n run dry then start again? Stump up for a new carb (non Chinese)? I'll need a part no) or look at timing first?
Previously I removed the exhaust and it seemed to run higher.... Even bouncing on a limit ? The engine just doesn't seem to run as high now is all I can describe but not sure if I'm just over thinking everything?
Again thanks for all advice.
What should compression be. I thought mine seemed pretty good when searching the net ?
As far as fuel goes. It was almost out of fuel while being fixed so I topped with E5 premium and ran. Should I try n drain n run dry then start again? Stump up for a new carb (non Chinese)? I'll need a part no) or look at timing first?
Previously I removed the exhaust and it seemed to run higher.... Even bouncing on a limit ? The engine just doesn't seem to run as high now is all I can describe but not sure if I'm just over thinking everything?
Again thanks for all advice.
cartmaster
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
You have just touched on the next thing i was thinking of suggesting. Disconnecting the exhaust at the manifold and try driving it to see if it improves. It is unusual for these exhausts to get blocked, but you never know. If you have been running rich or burning oil, its a possibility. Unlikely but possible. Something is definitely holding the engine back by the sound of it. The more we can eliminate, the easier it will be to find the issue. I have seen the tailpipe clogged up with mud and even crushed from impact with a rock or other solid object.
cartmaster
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Go here and hit the orange button up the top to find the engine manual. This should help you checking timing belt and checking/changing inlet valves if necessary.
cartaholics.com
EZGO 295 and 350 Engine Service Manual
Service Manual for EZGO 295 and 350 Engine :ezgo: EZGO 295 and 350 Engine Service Manual
Going to look at the timing over the coronation weekend .. and try running it without the exhaust. I took it off before and tried it in neutral but I'll try it driving around (with ear defenders) lol.
Looking at getting a reliable carb. Any idea of the actual part for my 350 workhorse?
While it's apart ill also try running without airbox.
Anything else you guys can suggest to test while I've the spanners out so I can get you all the info in one go?
As always I really appteucare all your help
Looking at getting a reliable carb. Any idea of the actual part for my 350 workhorse?
While it's apart ill also try running without airbox.
Anything else you guys can suggest to test while I've the spanners out so I can get you all the info in one go?
As always I really appteucare all your help
Tomd
Cartaholic
I don't like to do it but you could remove the drive belt and see if it hits the rev limiter just for a second. It may be like Cartmaster suggested a fuel delivery problem. I doubt you can find a new OEM carburetor in the UK so you might try to find a used OEM somewhere close. You said yours was not longer usable ? You may have no choice but to try another aftermarket one.
One time I had a cam timing gear with key way messed up but only once. I doubt the timing is off being it has such good compression. The intake valves are worn but for it to just start the problem all of sudden just about rules that out.
You could mark the drive clutch with a white paint stick and connect a timing light to one of the spark plug wires. Hit the gas and see if the mark you made moves where you painted it. You could use a piece of soap stone also. It should move if ignitor is doing its job. Just thinking out loud here. I really never had a reason to check this other than when I was trying to do the HEI ignition change last year.
You did put NGK spark plugs in it with a gap of .030 ? Have you checked to see what your pulser coil Ohms at. It should be from 19 to 21 ohms. If I think of more I will post back. I hope I do. If I had in my shop I have many extra parts to try. One being I got parts that I know work to try including a few new carburetors and driven clutches.
Other than that I am just about out of idea's but I do wake up sometimes with a thought lol
One time I had a cam timing gear with key way messed up but only once. I doubt the timing is off being it has such good compression. The intake valves are worn but for it to just start the problem all of sudden just about rules that out.
You could mark the drive clutch with a white paint stick and connect a timing light to one of the spark plug wires. Hit the gas and see if the mark you made moves where you painted it. You could use a piece of soap stone also. It should move if ignitor is doing its job. Just thinking out loud here. I really never had a reason to check this other than when I was trying to do the HEI ignition change last year.
You did put NGK spark plugs in it with a gap of .030 ? Have you checked to see what your pulser coil Ohms at. It should be from 19 to 21 ohms. If I think of more I will post back. I hope I do. If I had in my shop I have many extra parts to try. One being I got parts that I know work to try including a few new carburetors and driven clutches.
Other than that I am just about out of idea's but I do wake up sometimes with a thought lol
cartmaster
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
The sudden change in available power is what concerns me too. As Tom and I are running short of ideas we are both obviously thinking back to similar issues we have seen. Cracked spacers between the carb and head is one. Choke plate not fully open is another causing rich mixture and fouled plugs. I too have seen a damaged cam pully that was tightened up displaced and location pin was not in its slot etc. Carb jet loose causing rich running. There is a brass cap on top of the carb which holds a jet tube in place and the tube had fallen out of the cap. There are so many possibilities to ponder. As Tom said, trying to find a OEM carb in the UK these is going to be difficult. You could see if the jets etc from your OEM damaged carb will fit in the replacement! Try another cheap one as Tom suggests. If I had a spare I would ship it to you to try. I may have one that would need a darn good clean as it would have been in storage over the last ten or more years. Probably gummed up with varnish etc and probably not worth the effort. I will see if I can find it Tuesday. If it is there (in my old cleaning tank) it's probably brown and crusty and may be off a 295cc but would work if you swapped the jets.
Bear with me, but let us know how it goes over the weekend.
Bear with me, but let us know how it goes over the weekend.
New NGK plugs on way.
Michael saw dealer can get Ezgo Parts it seems so he looking for a carb. £90 not £20 as are Anazin somybe better. I'm gonna try salvage the damaged with spares.
I'll try allcombos of parts on... parts off see if anything narrows it down.
In honest it's not sudden. It had declined a bit but then suddenly wouldn't m9ve forwarder back hence origional.strip down. Illupdaye Iver weekend but please don't rush to reply..... there are many beers to be drunk this weekend aswell
Michael saw dealer can get Ezgo Parts it seems so he looking for a carb. £90 not £20 as are Anazin somybe better. I'm gonna try salvage the damaged with spares.
I'll try allcombos of parts on... parts off see if anything narrows it down.
In honest it's not sudden. It had declined a bit but then suddenly wouldn't m9ve forwarder back hence origional.strip down. Illupdaye Iver weekend but please don't rush to reply..... there are many beers to be drunk this weekend aswell
Cartmaster ....Tomd....
Update.
With the help of a manufacturing engineer friend and his very well stocked workshops we;
Used Chinese parts from cheap carb and some other (borrowed ?) bits to fix old carb. We reconditioned origional fuel pump. Tested cart with out airbox.
Neded a lik choke but immediately ran a bit better
Rewired a few okd looking connections n wires. Added feel cleaner. Added new NGK instead of thr Bosch plugs.
Reattached air box.
Tested and ran WAAAAYYYYY better. Its was still not perfect but useable.
Parked it up.
Next day ran it but now it seems to intermittently lose power completely. I'll check all wires and connections incase something trapped or loose still.
Firstly MASSIVE thanks for help to date. I thought I was going mad at one point just staring at the engine.
That said. When cart is running now it almost sounds like it's clicking .... so how do I adjust the gear selectors etc. New cables were installed by someone 3 years ago. They said at the time to my father that he'd need to hold it in gear until moving but the selector was never he same really.
I've looked but online seems to suggest adjusting the cables is a bit if a mystery. Any more pointers from you oracle's? It jumped out of forward gear a few times while testing but I was more keen it was running.
Sam
Update.
With the help of a manufacturing engineer friend and his very well stocked workshops we;
Used Chinese parts from cheap carb and some other (borrowed ?) bits to fix old carb. We reconditioned origional fuel pump. Tested cart with out airbox.
Neded a lik choke but immediately ran a bit better
Rewired a few okd looking connections n wires. Added feel cleaner. Added new NGK instead of thr Bosch plugs.
Reattached air box.
Tested and ran WAAAAYYYYY better. Its was still not perfect but useable.
Parked it up.
Next day ran it but now it seems to intermittently lose power completely. I'll check all wires and connections incase something trapped or loose still.
Firstly MASSIVE thanks for help to date. I thought I was going mad at one point just staring at the engine.
That said. When cart is running now it almost sounds like it's clicking .... so how do I adjust the gear selectors etc. New cables were installed by someone 3 years ago. They said at the time to my father that he'd need to hold it in gear until moving but the selector was never he same really.
I've looked but online seems to suggest adjusting the cables is a bit if a mystery. Any more pointers from you oracle's? It jumped out of forward gear a few times while testing but I was more keen it was running.
Sam
cartmaster
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
When I get to work, I will see if I can find details of shift cable adjustment. It will be easier to understand in pictures than trying to explain it. The first thing you should check is that the cables run nice and smooth and not routed in a way that creates tight bends etc. It has also been known for the cables to be pinched behind the engine protector plate under the cart where the cables run under the engine. I will get back to you regarding adjustment.
cartmaster
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
This should cover it. It came from a later manual but covers both single and dual cable shifters. Your cart should i believe have the dual cable setup.
cartmaster
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Moving on to your intermittent loss of power, we shall start off assuming it is an electrical fault if it is sudden loss of power and then comes back on again. What you need to do first is determine if the solenoid is dropping out when it happens. This will indicate either a failing solenoid, pedal switch, ignition switch or possibly the fuse holder located near the solenoid is corroded. This holds the old style 7 amp glass fuse and when these go i usually replace them with a new blade fuse holder and a 10 amp fuse. Other than that it is as you suggest, look for a loose connection somewhere. To check dropout of the solenoid, you can install a test lamp to ground and the large solenoid cable / terminal that goes to the starter generator and the lamp will light when you push the pedal then go out if the solenoid drops out or goes open circuit. If this happens, you can then move your lamp wire to the solenoid small terminal with the blue wire on it and see if your lamp stays lit when the cart dies. If it stays lit and the cart dies, then the activation circuit is good and you can suspect the solenoid is faulty. If the lamp goes out when connected to the blue wire, then there is a fault in the activation circuit. Usually this is the fuse holder or the pedal switch and there are other simple tests to find out where the fault may be. dont rule out the ignition switch either. These are not very good quality and can fail too. Intermittent shut downs are usually down to the activation circuit.
This will help you follow the activation circuit. It will be the same as your cart as all these models are built on the same basic platform.
cartaholics.com
This will help you follow the activation circuit. It will be the same as your cart as all these models are built on the same basic platform.
EZGO Gas Medalist and TXT Wiring Diagram
EZGO Golf Cart Wiring Diagram E-Z-GO Wiring Diagram - Gas - TXT - Medalist - Wiring Diagram :ezgo: